A Journey between earth and sky

Thus writes Giovan Giuseppe Cervera in his research presented on October 4, 1959, speaking of an unknown Ischia, the island of Tuff Stones...

"A journey through the Island, where every inch conceals a mysterious beauty. La Falanga, solitary like a monastery of friars; Sant’Angelo, the last vestige of a sunny past, the final whim of an enchanted era; Castanite, the prow of a ship atop an immense lava flow that, like a stormy sea, twists into a thousand contortions of perpetual agony; the Castle, rising like a fairy-tale landscape; the Port, which at certain times of the day resembles a magical carousel, where carriages with golden threads whirl in delirium beneath the highest tree tops, and a crowd of gesticulating people swirls around this merry-go-round of lights and colors; Matarace, where everyone stops to contemplate, rubbing their eyes to see whether this living nativity scene, nestled among the surrounding mountains like a beautiful toy among golden trinkets, is a dream or reality; the Guardiola di Testaccio, a small Ischian watchtower that scans the horizon from atop the fortress; Epomeo, which offers pure emotions at sunset; San Montano, the last hymn of nature: as you can see, we are already faced with a different way of understanding the Island—unique in its characteristic names—because this is the perspective of someone who loves the Island, who has explored it far and wide, drawing inspiration and affection from every clump of earth.

From this arises an enthusiasm for the paths, the trails, the sandy beaches, the crystal-clear transparency of the sea, THE TUFF STONES SCATTERED EVERYWHERE, the rocks that populate the waters. It is only within this setting that inanimate beings can take on life and partake in ours, merging with our daily existence as an element that embellishes, harmonizes, and continuously nourishes it. Indeed, who could deprive of such exhilaration those who live in Piscina Leggia, in PIETRA SPACCATA, in Pietra di Lacco (Pannella), in Pietra di Santa Maria, in Pietra del Turco, in Pietra di Zerrone, in Pietra Mosca, in Pietra di Tramontana, or in the Casa del Cefarotto? Who could detach from our daily lives those chimneys that peek out from the rooftops, those arches that live alongside us, those 'parracine' and 'madonnelle' that share and accompany our existence? They have almost become part of our character, standing around us as guardians of a simple and honorable way of life.

To stay on topic, let us now delve into the discovery of some of the secret beauties that Ischia reserves for those who approach it with the passion of lovers. Let us get closer to all those tuff stones scattered across the Island. There are many, with different names. Some have been transformed into homes and still preserve the warmth of a family, like Pietra Spaccata and Pietra di Cazzuoli, in Ciglio; Pietra Mosca, in Forio; Pietra di Tramontana, in Cuotto; la Pietra, in Lacco; Pietra del Turco, in Casamicciola; Pietra di Santa Maria al Monte. Others remain as cellars, like Pietra Pedrone, in Maio; Pietra di Zerrone, in Forio. Others still have been hollowed out as shelters during harsh times, containing a cistern that collects the water falling on the very stone itself, or they simply stand as stones, imposing themselves by their singular beauty…"

Epomeo's Volcanic Sandstone and large Masses of Tuffaceous Sandstone on the Island of Ischia

The Green Tuff of Epomeo is the signature stone of the island of Ischia, particularly in the areas of Forio and Serrara Fontana. There are numerous and remarkable testimonies to the presence of these enormous blocks of green stone both in the valleys and up on the mountains. Along the coasts of the island of Ischia, for example, we find the “Becco dell’Aquila” (Eagle's Beak) and the “Scogli Innamorati” (Lovers' Rocks) in Forio, and the “Fungo” (Mushroom) in Lacco Ameno. Similarly, higher up in the mountains within the territory of Forio, we find LA PIETRA SPACCATA (The Split Stone) and La Pietra di Santa Maria al Monte, and in Serrara Fontana, La Pietra dell'Acqua and Pietra Perciata, just to name a few. These are tuff blocks made of the same volcanic rock, which seemingly owes its gray-green coloration to contact with underwater sea. Or, at least, this is the most widely accepted hypothesis within the scientific community.

"Its origin (of the green tuff) dates back to between 55,000 and 33,000 years ago and is responsible for the formation of a caldera that probably occupied the central part of the island. At that time, in fact, the island was subject to a succession of impetuous explosive eruptions, which resulted in 'glowing avalanches'—suspensions of lava fragments, ash, pumice, and extremely hot gaseous emissions, combined with loads of solid debris. These covered a vast area of the territory and, once fused together, formed a thick ignimbrite layer. Furthermore, these glowing avalanches partially filled the caldera depression, which was subsequently invaded by the sea, and partially covered the areas that were emerged at the time. Upon contact with the underwater sea, the cloud, also known as a pyroclastic flow, gave rise to the green tuff, whose coloration is attributed to prolonged contact with seawater."

So writes Mariarosaria Mazzacane, author of the chapter "Mount Epomeo and its precious stone: the green tuff" in the volume "Ischia, world heritage site, Nature and culture" (edited by Ugo Leone and Pietro Greco, Doppiavoce edizioni, 2014).

What is certain is that the large quantity of green tuff, especially in the municipalities of Forio and Serrara Fontana, has had significant social implications. First and foremost for agriculture, since tuffaceous soils traditionally guarantee excellent drainage capacity; and then in construction, due to the large amount of clayey soils and ashlar stones to be used in building houses and the dry-stone walls that delimit properties—the famous “parracine“.

In fact, in many cases, the presence of mega-blocks of green tuff inspired ancient Ischian craftsmen to dig directly inside them to create cellars, livestock shelters, and sometimes cisterns for collecting rainwater. Such is the case with the cellar and the storehouse (cellaio) inside La Pietra Spaccata and its cistern dug into the summit, from which farmers drew water for winemaking needs but also for personal use. The green tuff revealed exceptional qualities, not only as a dwelling but also as a system for preserving wine. Cool in the summer, it released the heat absorbed during the summer months during the cold winter, softening its hardships. And the wine, then, kept in the cellai within chestnut barrels, «when they tap it» says Maiuri «and it emerges from that darkness, it still holds so much sun and warmth that it shines amber».